TheFrugalDoctor and TheHandsomeSurfer are going to be visiting Argentina for the first time together how exciting! Our first stop in Argentina will be Purmamarca. From San Pedro de Atacama, Chile to Purmamarca, Argentina it will be an an 8hr bus ride. Our Andesmar bus departs at 730am, we should be in Purmamarca by 330pm at the latest. The total cost of the bus for both of us is 100,000 Chilean Pesos which is about USD$101 or AUD$160. This is going to be the longest bus ride for the whole mini-retirement.
We are looking forward to exploring Argentina especially Jujuy. We found inspiration from Nicki whose blog is impressive when it comes to travel plans for Argentina. We haven’t quite figured out as yet what the currency situation is going to be like in Argentina can we use our Australian cards? How are we going to go with changing currency. TheFrugalDoctor had downloaded the Dolar Blue Hoy app to keep tabs on the going exchange rate. In San Pedro de Atacama we had only exchanged USD$200 because the best rate we could find was 1,200. The haggling attempts had failed despite the plea that this was way lower than the going dollar blue rate of 1,340.
What a scenic bus ride it is. We can see the Chilean border with Bolivia from a distance. In a few weeks we will be making our way back through there. TheFrugalDoctor is happy to have a window seat they are lost in the scenery. It’s surreal, the bus is supposed to get us up to an altitude of 4700m. Mountain ranges, lagoons, vicuña grazing camouflaged with the scrubs. It is hard to stop staring out of the window, home is definitely a long while away. The bus ride seems to be going by so quickly we will soon be at the border between Chile and Argentina (Paso de Jama). At the border the bus driver has some unfortunate news for us. There has been a major accident on route 52 on the way to Purmamarca he is going to take an alternative route and drive directly to Salta. We will be arriving in Salta around 9pm so the 8hr bus ride is now at least 14hours.
The scenery is stunning, but will have to endure another 6 hours on the bus. There is a group on an intrepid tour on the bus currently. We have never been fans of group tours now we have no option but “join” the intrepid group to Salta. TheHandsomeSurfer and TheFrugalDoctor both have no phone reception. The bus driver had given a ray of hope if the situation on the road changes he will drive past Purmamarca (we are hopeful). As more time passes it is clear that Salta is the destination. What are we going to do? Where are we going to stay? What’s Salta like, will it be safe looking for accommodation that late? We have no way of communicating with our Airbnb hosts in Purmamarca that we not going to arrive as planned.
What are we going to do? Fortunately we have downloaded the offline map of North Argentina on Maps.me when we arrive we need to have a place in mind to stay for the night. There are some hostels with good ratings in the vicinity of the bus station. We have two mapped out which are not too far from one another plan A and plan B. We hardly have had much to eat there has not been a stop since the Paso de Jama a nice hearty meal is going to be next after we find our accomodation. It’s a slight detour, we won’t let this ruin our plans. We don’t like cities that much, one night in an unknown city, we will make our way out there as soon as we can and head to Purmamarca.
There is no point in stressing about the unknown. Let’s enjoy and take in more of this spectacular scenery. More Spanish lessons to do as the long bus ride continues. Sometimes I look out the window and wonder how does one make a living here in the middle of no where. Where do they get their water? How many people live in that house? A solar panel nice touch how much energy would they get from that? If I lived out here would I thrive or would I be way out of my element with no creature comforts in sight?
The sun is setting in the distance how long till we are there yet? I have let my thoughts wander. On the road there were many shrines roadside a reminder of those that perished en route. They did not make it to whatever destination they were going to. Their journey ended in transit. Another gentle reminder that whatever plans they had they would never get to fulfil. I pray for a safe trip and hope that there was not another life lost in the accident that saw us take this detour. It’s getting dark my faith is in the driver who has probably made this journey many times. We will get to Salta safely.
We finally arrive in Salta what a long bus ride it was. 14 hours later we can leave the bus. 14 hours was the time it took to travel from Melbourne to Santiago. We are both tired and very hungry (tenemos mucha hambre). Serendipity: we ring the bell for the first hostel just as the owner was about to depart. We make an effort to speak in Spanish he feels for our plight. He has a recommendation for the best asado in town. We are in Argentina after all meat rules here and fortunately people here eat late so the night is still young. I love Argentina already it feels like an extension of Australia they even have the same power plugs as Australia we are home!
We enjoy the hearty meal and tip the waiter generously that was the best meal we have had so far on this mini-retirement. The meat was divine, Malbec, beer, atmosphere all were a delight. Total cost including tip $43,100 Argentine Pesos. If we made the detour so that we can enjoy this meal then it was worth it. The next morning we go looking for currently exchangers, we find men in the street saying cambio, cambio. I ask one what the going rate for the USD is and it’s 1,340. Do we trust these men? We have no option there isn’t a formal money exchange in sight. We change USD$100 with one then another USD$200 with another. Fortunately Argentina now has larger notes 10,000 and 20,000 we don’t have to stash 402,000 in a bag in a not so distant past one would receive it all in 1,000 or smaller notes that is at least 402 bills. Fingers crossed the bills we have received are legit. On we go to Purmamarca more pesos in hand, Salta stop has indeed a blessing.
On the bus to Purmamarca we get talking to a friendly old man who is seated in the seat adjacent to ours. He seems like quite the character. As the vendors enter the bus with their delights he is buying their food. He shows us some of the artworks he has done. I’m in intrigued that’s a very huge mural you must be quite a popular artist I say. Turns out he is indeed. He has more to show including a large mural he is currently working on. He invites us to his house and give us his business card in a weeks time we will be in his town, we will indeed make the effort to visit. Who would have thought that we would be adding visit local artist icon to the list? This detour has indeed been a great delight. Argentina it has only been a day or two I’m liking you already, friendly people, great food and beautiful scenery. The hostel owner sends a friendly message to check in on how our travels have gone. We are blown away by the gesture, they can’t believe our chance encounter with the local artist. Serendity indeed we are glad that our plan didn’t go to plan.
Have you been glad that your plan has not gone according to plan?